Why Keys Snap and What Happens Inside the Lock
Keys break for several predictable reasons: metal fatigue from years of daily use, a key that was cut slightly off-specification, applying sideways torque while the lock cylinder is still moving, or attempting to open a stiff mortise lock that has not been lubricated in years. The Aiken County climate — humid summers and occasional cold snaps in winter — accelerates metal fatigue, especially on older brass keys. When a key snaps, the break almost never happens at the bow (the part you grip). It happens inside the keyway, often right at or just behind the shear line of the cylinder. The fragment sits flush with or recessed behind the face of the lock, and it may or may not be partially engaged with the driver pins inside, making it impossible to turn or remove by hand.
The internal geometry of the lock matters enormously here. A standard residential door knob lock has a relatively narrow keyway, and the broken piece can wedge tightly against the pin stacks. A commercial mortise lock — the type embedded directly into the door edge with a full rectangular case behind it — has a more complex cylinder housing, and extraction requires understanding how the mortise lock cylinder is retained and oriented before any tool is introduced. Attempting extraction without that knowledge risks bending the plug, scratching the cam, or displacing wafers and springs that are expensive to source for older mortise lock hardware.